Got Tomato Growing Questions?
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{ 8 comments… read them below or add one }
Help
I started my tomato plants 3 weeks ago and I think that I may have transplanted them from the egg cartons too early. I planted 3 seedlings in small plastic cups. They seem to be getting leggy. I am using our closet with several grow lamps. I did transplant them in Miracle Grow potting soil when I moved them out of the egg cartons. I did use a seed starting mix when they were in the egg cartons.
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admin Reply:
March 11th, 2010 at 6:43 am
The Miracle Grow potting soil might have something to do with it, because it could have too much fertilizer for tender plants just starting out.
Another thing that can cause leggy plants is when your grow lamps are too far away. So move them closer if you think that might apply.
Good luck!
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I have many tiny yellow flowers, but as they grow they close again and the inside of the flower turns brown, inturn, now tomatoe starts.
What is happening?
Thanks
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admin Reply:
April 6th, 2010 at 12:39 pm
@Barbara,
The blossoms are what turn into tomatoes. So it looks like you’re doing well!
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Plenty of flowers, but no fruit is starting inside of flower, Inside is just turning brown.
Help!
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admin Reply:
April 6th, 2010 at 12:40 pm
@Barbara,
If the blossoms are NOT turning into tomatoes, here are some potential causes:
# Temperature Too High or Too Low
# Lack of Pollination
# Nitrogen – Too Much or Too Little
# Humidity Too High or Low Humidity.
# Lack of water
# Stress from insect damage or disease
http://gardening.about.com/od/problemspest1/a/BlossomDrop.htm
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I have no trouble growing smaller tomatoes,but I can’t seem to grow the larger types with out them cat facing.I live in the southern part of Washington state near the Vancouver area.Can you help?
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admin Reply:
April 6th, 2010 at 12:38 pm
@Tracey,
Here’s a good Oregon State University Extension page about the subject.
http://plant-disease.ippc.orst.edu/disease.cfm?RecordID=1077
Cold weather during the fruiting period is one cause of cat facing, and herbicide use near the tomato plant is another one. Anything with 2,4-D can hurt tomatoes. Lawn type weed killers near your garden can be a culprit, if you use those.
Here are some varieties that are resistant:
http://vric.ucdavis.edu/veg_info/catface.htm
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Like many other gardners in the Northeast, I experienced a problem with last years tomatoes called “early blight”. My question is this, can this fungi be transfered to this years crop through last years seeds. I started some tomatoes indoors using last years seeds and they were doing very well unitl I noticed some indications of early blight on the leaves. I immediately sprayed them with Daconil in hopes of saving them. Comments by all are welcomed at the provided email address. Thanks in advance!
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admin Reply:
April 14th, 2010 at 11:38 am
@Dan Kmiotek,
Good question. It appears that it is possible that seeds can be infected with early blight.
Here are a few good resources for you.
http://www.umassvegetable.org/LateBlightAlertforTomatoandPotato.html
This Cornell link has a list of 8 good steps you should take.
http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/pp/resourceguide/cmp/solanaceous.php#d5
1. Use crop rotations of at least 3 years to non-hosts (away from tomato, potato and eggplant).
2. Provide optimum growing conditions and fertility. Stressed plants (including drought) are more susceptible to early blight.
3. Stake or cage plants to keep fruit and foliage away from soil.
4. Drip irrigation is preferred, or overhead irrigation starting before dawn, so that the plants are dry early in the day. The key is to keep the period of leaf wetness to a minimum.
5. Mulching helps to prevent splashing of spores from soil up to lower leaves.
6. Indeterminate tomato and late-maturing potato varieties are usually more resistant/tolerant to early blight.
7. Early blight can be seed-borne, so buy from a reliable supplier. Hot water seed treatment at 122°F for 25 minutes is recommended to control early blight on tomato seed. See chlorine treatment procedures under bacterial diseases.
8. Disinfect stakes or cages with an approved product each season before using. Sodium hypochlorite at 0.5% (12x dilution of household bleach) is effective, and must be followed by rinsing, and proper disposal of solution. Hydrogen peroxide is also permitted.
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Is there any problems I should Know About by Growing my tomatoes in”Grow Bags”.Please Help
before I start.
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admin Reply:
April 16th, 2010 at 11:10 am
@Eddie,
There are different types of grow bags. The regular kind, and the upside down kind.
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/tomato-smart-pot-planter.html
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/totuupdotofl.html
With a regular grow bag, you can start from seed or a starter plant. With a Topsy Turvy, you’ll have to start with a starter plant.
The most important thing, in my opinion, is starting out with a high quality potting soil. The better the soil quality, the better you’ll do.
Here’s a good article about potting soil.
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1082/is_3_43/ai_54851905/
I love the Square Foot Gardening soil recipe, which also works well in containers.
http://www.mysquarefootgarden.net/mels-mix/
Good luck!
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I noticed leaves on the lower portion on my young 14″ high heirlooms planted about 4 weeks ago turning yellow. The top portion of the plants leaves look green and healthy. What does this mean?
Thanks for your time.
Tom
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My tomato plants are not growing very much. I live in Arkansas and I planted them about 1 month ago but they have only grown a few inches. The leaves have a deep green color and they all look very healthy though. Can you help me please?
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